If you desire to do the task right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and really see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
Second, you have to get rid of copper fouling. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods.
Remove the brush, hose it down once again, and put it aside to dry. Rub out the cleaning rod with a paper towel. Take your spot rod, and put three solvent restore the bore. The last one need to come out almost white. When it does, follow with a dry patch.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and lumps and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
If you don't have a borescope, run a solvent patch up the bore and let it sit, muzzle somewhat down, for a couple of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, however if it has green or blue spots, back to the J-B.
Now, some general notes. Some barrels copper-foul much even worse than others. As a guideline, the more you invest on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. But every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do break-in procedures work? I doubt it. I've had a couple of cases where a barrel unexpectedly started to group as I reached completion of the process, but I have actually had even more break-ins that made no distinction at all.
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They work, in some cases, however if you forget and leave the stuff in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but good, and considering that I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I'm reluctant to take the chance. They're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a cue from the military, whose lives depend on their guns going bang. They want them immaculate. And immaculate is an excellent way to go.
The steps to properly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or complete disassembly. Due to the variety of rifles, complete disassembly of the gun aren't within the scope of this article.
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Utilizing a cleaning tool, such as a utility brush or cleaning up swabs, and get rid of any loose particles that might be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber. Heavy fouling can be gotten rid of with a light application of cleaner and enabling it to sit for a few minutes prior to brushing.
One typical myth is that more is much better when it concerns lubrication of your firearm. You want to effectively lube where required, but too much can result in excessive residues, which can lead to breakdowns and dealing with concerns (slippery). Lubing cloths are an exceptional tool since they help manage the amount of oil/lubrication being used in any given location of your weapon.
The treatment is simple. Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Remember, keep your barrel secured or pointed down to avoid any solvent gathering near the actionsee Step 1.) Enable it to sit, and keep in mind that eliminating copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.
What you do not want is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. So when you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a number of dry patches down the bore, followed by a number of patches that have actually been damp with a regular cleansing solvent. Run three or 4 dry patches down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.